Thursday 3 June 2021

Outback Odyssey 2021 - Melrose to Blinman

The landscapes in the third section of the Outback Odyssey are, I think, the jewels in the crown of the entire trip. That said, some of the cycling can be a little more challenging as far as time in the saddle and some of the roads are less than ideal. On the flip side, there's a bunch of really awesome single track to enjoy. Full steam ahead to Blinman!

Day 11 - Melrose to Quorn

The downside to having down a few Outback Odysseys is that you know where, and how bad some things can get, particularly after some rain. With that, thoughts overnight were turning to the potential state of the clay roads outside of Melrose. We had travelled on them in 2015 after some rain and we were keen to avoid them completely if they were likely to be muddy. We were assured that they were in good riding condition, and so with that we decided that we'd give them a shot, rather than the rail trail alternative.

And what a decision that turned out to be. The roads were in perfect condition. Even better, there was an ever helpful tail wind for much of the ride into Wilmington where we had our morning tea. 

Miss V enjoying the perfect conditions. 

After morning tea it was a relatively straight, but undulating, ride to lunch. Once again, a tail wind guided us the the entire journey to lunch. The amount of good fortune on this stretch, while much appreciated, was somewhat amusing. It's been said that there's always at least one bad day on the Mawson Trail, and we hadn't had one yet. So I couldn't help wonder what might be in store later.      

Leaving lunch, we headed towards Richmans Gap. This stretch of road is where things start getting quite spectacular as far as getting views of wide, expansive landscapes. At some points we would crest a small hill and the landscape would appear to 'open up', providing views well off into the distance. 

The climb up and through Richmans gap is relatively steep and a bit rocky in sections. It's a nice challenge late in the day. At the top of the gap I waited for V to arrive, while watching the small parade of bikes go past.  

Bike-porn alert!
Irene rolls past at the top of Richmans Gap on a very sweet machine

Waiting for a small gap in the bike traffic, V and I descended from the top of Richmans Gap at nearly 50km/h on the upper steep section, before settling into a more sensible speed for the remaining downhill run into Quorn.  

Overall, this was just a magic day on the bikes. Trails were in fantastic condition and we had we had a tail wind pretty much the entire day. I'm not sure we could have asked for better. 


Strava data



Day 12 - Quorn to Hawker

Our longest day of the tour had arrived. Prior to starting this Outback Odyssey, V and I had all but decided that we'd take the short cut into Hawker via the highway (and probably spending some time at the fantastic Kanyaka ruins). During most of the morning, there was the occasional comment from both V and myself suggesting that *maybe* we could think about doing the full distance and visit the Cradock Hotel.  Could we? Should we? We decided to leave that decision until we reached the lunch stop. In the meanwhile we had a lot of riding to do, including the first (and certainly most boring) corrugated section of road to contend with.

Not too far out of Quorn, we turned up the climb to head into the Yarrah Vale Gorge. I was surprised by this section the first time I did it in 2015. and even now, three times in, it still has that wow factor. Riding through a relatively narrow gorge we reach the top of the small climb, the road turns to the right and almost instantly the landscape opens up and presents itself. 

Yarrah Vale Gorge - Spectacular

The ride after Yarrah Vale Gorge leads us past the grave of Hugh Proby, and then onward to the surveyed but never completed town of Simmonston. This section is just magic, with gently undulating roads providing a view of the vast plains the hills in the distance. 

It looks like it goes on forever.

We reached Simmonston and much to our surprise the sag wagon was right on our tail! So unfortunately we couldn't hang around too long and needed to keep moving. We took a few photos, and then off we went, hoping to make a bit of time on the sag wagon while thinking ahead to the corrugated road that lay ahead.

Then we had our biggest surprise of the day.  The 10 kilometre corrugated piece of road that we were absolutely dreading all day had been (relatively) recently graded. Better still, we had a tail wind the entire time we were on it! We made excellent time along here, and arrived at lunch in better shape than we ever had on this section. 

As we ate lunch overlooking an impressively heavily eroded creek channel, I think our decision had already been made. We were heading to Cradock. 

Much like the ride during the morning, the ride from lunch to Cradock felt like nothing could go wrong. Wind in the back, awesome scenery and generally friendly cycling terrain with gentle undulating hills. We arrived at the Cradock hotel to find a number of our cycling colleagues enjoying a cold beverage. Naturally we chose to do the same; It would surely be considered rude if we didn't!  

Cheers!

Cider consumed, we jumped back on the bikes and headed towards our destination for the night.  The road from Cradock to Hawker is relatively flat and boring, but given the awesome day that we had already had, this fast and relatively short stretch of road was never going to dampen our spirits.  

Strava data



Day 13 - Hawker to Rawnsley Park

The morning out of Hawker followed a familiar routine to the previous days. Quite a cold morning, but when the sun arrived, things warmed up and provided us with perfect cycling conditions.  Much of the route for today would have us threading between two ranges, so we were blessed with amazing scenery in all directions.

Today is also the day that we pass by the grave of Douglas Bruce.  Much more impressive than that of Hugh Proby, whose grave we passed yesterday. In contrast though, nothing is said about this one in the nightly briefings over dinner. Still, very much worth a stop if only to marvel at the effort required to get the marble structure to it's location on top of the hill where it sits.

Grave of Douglas Bruce

The mild nature of the trail soon ends, and we are directed up Wonoka hill.  This is a short, steep little climb that puts us on top of the ridge giving us amazing views from above the trail that we have just taken.  An equally steep, but far more treacherous downhill brings us to our morning tea stop. This part was far more rocky and sketchy than in previous years, to the extent that I may have taken a small chunk out of my front rim. Less ideal!  Following morning tea we wind our way through Mt Little Station. The landscape here is vast, and the ranges in the background keep serving up that wow factor. 

Vast plains bound by epic ranges at Mt Little Station

Exiting Mt Little Station, we find ourselves on a lengthy stretch of highway that is long enough to contemplate the next corrugated section which we are all too aware is coming up. Then again, the previous corrugated section had been graded recently, could we possibly be so luck that this next one is also? 

Open highway on the way to lunch

Rolling into lunch on the first short part of Moralana Scenic Drive, we soon found that the answer to the previous question was a definite no. Moralana Scenic Drive certainly had not been recently graded. Oh well, we can't have everything going our way!   And with that, after (a fairly tiny) lunch, we took on the 25 kilometres of undulating, corrugated road. It should be said that despite it being a fairly ordinary road to ride on, it does live up to it's name and is very scenic, once you get a chance to take your eyes off the road for a moment and take a look.

Moralana Scenic Drive lives up to it's name.

 After (finally!) exiting Moralana Scenic drive, we ride towards Rawnsley park on the highway. The feeling of relief to be riding without a constant barrage of corrugations is unimaginable. The ride along this section was, once again, aided by a tailwind. Our good fortune just keeps getting better!  

Arriving in camp

Strava data



Day 14 - Rawnsley Park to Wilpena Pound

Our shortest day of the tour, but certainly up there in terms of fun. Outside of Rawnsley Park is a pretty fun section of single track which starts off reasonably simple, but gradually gets a bit more difficult with a few creek crossings and other obstacles. There's nothing super technical, but there's enough that you could potentially damage yourself if you screwed it up. Unusually for us, we found ourselves in the middle of a relatively large group of riders which made things a bit dicey, since we were generally a bit quicker. As a result, we limited our photo stops so that we didn't have to continually re-overtake people.  

Wilpena Pound in all it's glory.

Once the buzz of the single track has worn off we get spat out onto the highway on the way to Wilpena Pound.  Given the shortness of the day, and the relatively direct nature of the trail, this stretch is one where we can see the hard working volunteers in action as they pass by us on the highway. 

The highway takes us past the Flinders Ranges information hut, and then we make a sharp left turn onto the start of another fun section of trail, the telegraph track! After a short twisty part we join a relatively straight, mostly downhill, trail that takes us ever closer to Wilpena Pound. It's pretty easy to get a bit of speed up along here, and coupled with a few strategically placed humps, it's also easy to get a bit of air. So get some air we did! Only a little bit though.  😎  

The super fun telegraph track

 The day finished off with a short bitumen stretch leading into the heart of the Wilpena Pound resort. V and I still haven't managed to get ourselves back here outside of Outback Odyssey, despite our best intentions. Hopefully soon.  

Arriving at our campsite

With such a sort day on the trail, there was ample time to just relax and chat with other riders, perform a bit of a mental reset and prepare for the final day. I've noticed in previous editions of Outback Odyssey (and this one was no different) that there seems to be a general lifting of the mood in camp at Wilpena as we're all preparing to finish our adventure. 


Strava data



Day 15 - Wilpena Pound to Blinman

As we rolled out of Wilpena Pound, we began our final day on the Mawson Trail. The first section of the trail is simply amazing. Fast and flowing, the trail weaves between the trees and crosses a number of creek channels.  Some of the creek channels can be a lot deeper than they first appear and need a bit of caution, but on the whole they can be taken at full speed. 

Just prior to morning tea we arrive at what is probably the best view in the entire trip, and certainly one of the most photographed in the Flinders Ranges, Razorback lookout.  The view from here is stunning, and is definitely worth a brief stop after the effort taken to climb up the steep hill to get there.  It's also a good chance to cheer on a few of our fellow riders as they make their way up the climb. 

Miss V climbing up to Razorback Lookout.

The section after morning tea towards lunch can be a bit of a grind, but also rewards with great views when cresting the many small climbs.  The creeks banks tend to be far steeper in this area, and so a fast run into a creek bed tends to be followed immediately by a leg burning climb out the other side. In 2019, I remember my legs feeling quite ordinary through here, but this time around I was feeling relatively fresh and was enjoying it more than I ever had previously. Soon enough, the trail fun had to end and we arrived at a clearing just off the highway where our lunch stop was.


Cool person Tarn
Cool person Bernadette

After lunch, following the hot tip from one of our ride companions, we pumped up our tyres nice and hard and prepared for the final bitumen stretch into Blinman. Following the trend for the previous days, we also had a tail wind. Because of course we did.  In the past, I've found this small section to be a real drag, but this time I actually found it quite enjoyable!

We rolled into the parking area of the Blinman North Hotel to the cheers of those who had already finished and set about finding some refreshments. As we sat and reflected on what had been an amazing two weeks on the bike, we watched and cheered as other riders completed their journey; some seemingly overwhelmed with emotion once the magnitude of their epic accomplishment had become apparent.  

We made it!

All good things must come to an end, and with that we remounted the bikes and rode back to our accommodation for our final Outback Odyssey night at Alpana station. As has been the case in previous Outback Odysseys, the family running Alpana really looked after us with a delicious home cooked meal. 

Strava data



Day 16 - Returning home

We were up bright and early to put our luggage and bikes on the correct trucks. It was at this point we had our only real technical issue with V's front tyre having gone flat. Better to happen now than during one of the riding days! That said, we were still planning to ride home from the city, so we were hoping that there was no underlying problem that would interfere with these plans. 

Busy morning packing all the bikes and luggage


Unlike past editions, the bus ride home was uneventful (no breakdowns!) and super quick. Original estimates were to get into the city by 5pm, yet we actually got in closer to 3pm. Outstanding!

Bikes and baggage were collected and shuttled to our nearby workplace. V's tyre was re-inflated and seemed to be holding air just fine. And with that, we prepared ourselves for the final ride of our Mawson Trail adventure, riding home. 

During the ride home along Linear Park there was a lot of happy chatter about the events of the past two weeks, coupled with a sense of calm and personal achievement. Riding into the driveway together, there was a sense of completeness, as we returned to our home that we departed two weeks prior on our adventure. 

And with that, we were done. Time to relax and enjoy the comforts of home.  

Mission Accomplished!


For those that have taken the time to read this story..   Thank you!.   😊




Outback Odyssey 2021 - Burra to Melrose

This was the  section in 2019 that caused us pretty much all the trouble, so there was a little bit of apprehension heading into this section. Everyone's hopes were for a trouble-free run this time. Fingers were crossed. 

Day 6 - Burra to Hallett

I think there was a feeling of anxiety over the camp as we prepared to head out from Burra. In 2019, this was THE section that pretty much defined the ride. With no rain forecast, it was likely that we would have a good run through the day. Even so, the memories of that day are burned in peoples minds quite deeply.   

The day started with a spectacular sunrise.  Then again, so did this day in 2019. Hopefully this wasn't some sort of bad omen.

Not a bad way to start the day.

On the way out of Burra we stopped to take photos of the old Burra prison and then later, as is tradition, there was a stop for photos at the Midnight Oil house on the outskirts of Burra.  From there it was reasonably smooth sailing for the rest of the day. 

Between V and myself there was a lot of chatter along the lines of "I remember trying to walk along here".  We stopped to 'recreate' a photo that we took in 2019 at one of the creeks also. Perhaps the demons of this section are purged? Hopefully.  

Quite a difference compared to 2019

This day is the first real taste of remoteness in the ride. If you manage to time things well it's entirely possible to be riding on a stretch of road and not see anyone else in front or behind. Sweeping corners followed by wide vistas extending out to New South Wales at Dares Hill summit.   

Enjoying the views at Dares Hill Summit

The entire day was pretty damn awesome to be honest.  It was a section that I had really wanted to re-do in 2019 and was denied. This time, everything went super smoothly.  We were able to take our time and really appreciate the surroundings. 

Dusty approach to Hallett

It was interesting chatting to others who had been on the 2019 Odyssey, and hearing their comments about how they felt riding through there. All of them seemed to mirror our feelings of fear and anxiety, with one referring to PTSD, which sounded like a fair assessment. This time however, we all got in safely and were able to breathe a big sigh of relief. 

During dinner in Hallett, V (once again) won the raffle! Woo Hoo!

Winners are grinners!

Strava data



Day 7 - Hallett to Spalding

Headwinds!  Headwinds were the order of the day.  In an area where the horizon is dominated by wind farms, I guess you need to prepare yourself for the occasional breeze. 

There was some tough going here. The day overall may have been quite short at 45km, but the effort level required in some places was right up there.  We were effectively doing a slow-motion pace line in some sections. 

The day was broken up with a detour to a ruin that was just off the road as it seemed like a nice spot to take some photos. 

Ruin which caught many people's attention

We approached Spalding via a long downhill run with the wind in our back, and then a short section of the channel system that directs water to the nearby reservoir. This is a nice way to end the day.  

Fun and smiles on the Mawson with V and Tarn

We arrived in Spalding to be greeted by lunch, which was a baked potato and cake.  The rest of the afternoon was spent lounging about and generally relaxing. 

Strava data



Day 8 - Spalding to Laura

We left Spalding via a much longer section of the channel system that we were travelling on yesterday. It must be said, this is quite a relaxing way to start the day.   

There were quite a number of photo stops during the day, including at the historic aquaduct.  I think we've stopped to take photos of it each time we've passed by. For a piece of infrastructure, it certainly is photogenic! 

Historic aquaduct

Rain was threatening to ruin our fun for most of the day with dark clouds seemingly following us along the route. Aside from a few spots here and there, we fortunately arrived in Laura mostly dry.  It wasn't all smooth sailing however, as the run into Laura treated us to a 'nice' headwind.  That seems to be the theme of this Odyssey edition!

Strava data



Day 9 - Laura to Melrose

With a rest day on the horizon and a warm and cozy cabin waiting for us at the end of the day, we were fairly keen to get under way.  There had been a slight fog in the morning, as well of a chill in the air so we were fairy rugged up against the elements.  

Leaving Laura. A bit cold for my liking.

Leaving Laura we took the nice rail trail that runs parallel to the highway.  A nice gentle way to start the day. V had a small concern with her knee, so we tended to back off the pace and effort a little where we could so that we weren't stressing things out too much. The last thing we want is a busted knee. 

Exiting the rail trail we started heading through Wirrabarra Forest towards our morning tea stop. The run through the forest is amazing. A few rocky and rutted climbs, some fast sweeping downhills; tree-lined for almost the duration. A beautiful bit of the Mawson.  Arriving at morning tea we were a little disappointed to see the usual area was unavailable, due to work works going on but we were under some nice trees, so we were all happy, sitting on some logs, munching on our cakes and biscuits. 

Fun times riding through Wirrabarra Forest

Rolling out of the forest we were looking forward to the lunch stop. Last time the Laura community went all out for us and the roadside lunch was something else.  On arrival ..  wow..   Road-side barbecue chicken and potato with salad, wrapped in pita and a collection of cakes and biscuits that wouldn't look out of place at a bake sale.  We were truly spoilt.  I may have had seconds. :)

Our destination for the day, Mt Remarkable, in the background. 

The run from lunch, especially with a full stomach was a bit of an ordeal, but we got there. The undulating nature of the roads certainly tends to test your patience, but we always look forward to bombing down the descent into Melrose. Such a great way to end thee days riding.

We got to our cabin (a 6 bed bunk room!) and somehow negotiated all the laundry related politics to get our washing done. 

Dinner was a delicious veg soup, marinated chicken with an assortment of salads and a crumble for dessert. The nice woman serving me felt that I looked hungry and gave me extra chicken, which was much appreciated. 

Strava data



Day 10 - Rest day in Melrose

I had hoped that I could get out for a bit of a spin on the rest day on the easy trails at the base of Mt Remarkable. 

The rain had set in over the morning, so things were looking a little ordinary, however I figured that I could get out for a quick spin in the wet weather gear.  Everything started off great. Wet, but great nevertheless. Until I hit a big patch of sticky mud. Fear the mud!  So I changed course a little, and that's where things went a little bit askew.  I got a fraction lost and spent a bit of time trying to work out how to get out of my self-made predicament and back to safety.  Eventually I got back, perhaps a little worse for wear.  

Sorry Lynskey :'(  

The bike was given a decent wash and going over on my return, and is hopefully ready for the final leg of the Mawson Trail.  With some good fortune, my shoes will also be sufficiently dry by morning, or else I may be in for a damp ride tomorrow.


Previous: Outback Odyssey 2021 - Adelaide to Burra

Next: Outback Odyssey 2021 - Melrose to Blinman


Outback Odyssey 2021 - Adelaide to Burra


Heading to the start

After a restless, and somewhat sleepless, night, we jumped out of bed ready to face the challenge ahead.  Nothing more could be done to prepare,  so we had to run with what we had.  Forecast for the first day was crazy hot for May (27 degrees) so we were setting off in nearly full summer gear. Quite different to 2019 where we were expecting to be rained on.  The ride in to the start location in Hindmarsh Square was nice and gentle, with chatter about who we might expect to see on the ride from previous rides and the things we were looking forward to in the coming weeks. In the back of my mind was the thought that the next time I would see this path the adventure will have begun. By my standards, I was feeling relatively relaxed about the trip, which is to say I was less of an emotional mess. 

Ready? Probably not, but let's go anyway!
Lynskey and Maretta..  waiting patiently



Day 1 - Adelaide to Lobethal

And we're away! After a quick briefing from Russell from BikeSA, we were away under a police escort to bring us to Linear Park.  As previously, this is all backyard playground stuff for V and myself, so we're familiar with it all,  including the silly sting in the tail that is Stone Hut Road.  Maybe due to the heat, maybe due to the poor sleep the night before, but I wasn't feeling great. Things probably weren't helped by forgetting to eat my Carman bar for breakfast that I had in my camelback. Oh well. 

Miss V leading the way on Linear Park

Stone Hut Road went about as expected (it hurt!), possibly a little bit worse than I would have hoped for, but that's fine, It's not a race :)  I ended up walking a few sections, but I was in no way in the minority doing that!

Everyone was enjoying Stone Hut Road

The Mawson Trail had been rerouted due to the 2020 fires, but we could see from our route the extent of the devastation through the forest, but also the regrowth that has happened in the months since. 

We rolled into Lobethal and found our assigned deluxe camping tent, grabbed our lunch and set to work setting up our routine for getting ourselves sorted for the next day. 

Our first bit of drama for the trip happened when V's Garmin didn't upload the ride data. It did this once prior to Outback Odyssey and we managed to fix it. Hopefully this is the case this time. fingers crossed.

On a positive note, I didn't short out my powerbank on the first night as I did in 2019. 

Strava data


Day 2 - Lobethal to Tanunda

Yay! it's my birthday! 😁🎂 

Kitted up in my relatively new Blackchrome kit we rolled out and paid a quick visit to our friends Rob and Jill. After a quick chat, we said our goodbyes and promised to catch up after we returned.

Friendly face in Lobethal :)

Today was kind of awesome. 

Somewhat randomly I spotted a sunglasses case by the roadside which had reading glasses inside. Figuring that they didn't look like they had been there long I assumed they were from our group and took them with me. Later they found their rightful owner. 

Later in the day I spotted an echidna walking on the side of the road. V and I pulled up well short so as not to spook it while we took photos. In the meanwhile it walked right up to me, before it decided that it needed to hide.  So awesome!

Birthday Echidna

There was a small detour in place for us due to a motocross race happening inside Mount Crawford Forest, but this was fun in it's own right as it took us on some sandy tracks which had the bikes slipping and sliding all over the place.  

The undulating terrain across the ridge line was very pretty, but I think we were all hanging out for the gates at the top of the hill to indicate the top of Steingarten Road, which would also mean lunch was nearby! We enjoyed the run into the lunch stop at Liebich Wines via Steingarten Road. Fast, bumpy; all the good things.  We were served up some delicious vegetable soup and a ham roll, plus a whole heap of grapes laid out.


View from the top of Steingarten Road

Lynskey and Maretta enjoying the view

We did the final loop around the back of Tanunda before rolling into our overnight venue, Chateau Tanunda. A Black Tie/Fancy dress dinner was held, no doubt in honour of my birthday ;)

Strava data


Day 3 - Tanunda to Riverton

As with last time, we had included a section of todays trail into our training. As a result, we were reasonably familiar with the trail from Tanunda to Kapunda. Unlike our training ride, there was no rain to spoil our fun today, though it was a bit on the cool side initially.   



Lunch was provided by the same catering company as yesterday, so we were treated to a nice pumpkin soup and a baked potato loaded up with all the good things while sitting by the roadside. 


While at lunch we felt a few spots of rain, but nothing that we thought should be of concern, so we continued the final stretch of the route to Riverton. This little bit is quite pretty with a lot of it being tree lined and takes in a few interesting trails, including a few rocky sections and some tricky little climbs. 

We arrived into Riverton to wet roads, and people in camp asking if we'd been hit by the rain. Nope! sometimes riding a bit slower has its advantages.  


Dark clouds followed us into Riverton

The students of Riverton put on an awesome meal for us, which consisted of a cauliflower soup,  roast pork and veg and topped off by a really delicious raspberry, apple and coconut crumble. Top marks.  

Strava data


Day 4 - Riverton to Burra

This was the day where things started to became unravelled in 2019. All eyes and ears were open for any and all weather forecasts. While there was a threat of rain, it seemed unlikely,  so we all had our fingers crossed. 

The wind direction was certainly favourable for us, right in our back for the run along the Riesling Trail. In 2019 we struggled so badly along here that we suggested that we never ride it again.  This time, we really enjoyed it. 

Much nicer day on the Riesling trail


Of course, having a favourable breeze for the Riesling trail mean that the final stretch up and over the Camel's Hump was a little more difficult. That said, riding up to the top of the Camel's Hump wasn't too bad and was no where near as breezy as 2019 where we felt like we were going to be blown off the top of the hill! 

The descent down the Camel's Hump is super fun. Nice and fast, but not too much in the way of danger so you can really enjoy it.  This is then followed by a whole series of undulations that pass through the fields on the outskirts of Burra.

View from the top of the Camel's Hump

Despite thinking that we might not do it, we ended up riding the final little loop to get into Burra, probably more for completeness than anything. It just seems like such a strange addition to the trail, but I'm sure that there was a purpose in mind when they originally planned it.

On arrival into Burra we headed over to our cottage accommodation. Solid walls, heaters - all the modern conveniences. Even better, the washing machine was working this time!  So after dinner we took care of our washing and breathed a massive sigh of relief. 

Dinner was a spicy pumpkin soup (maybe too spicy for me), lasagne and sticky date pudding. 



Day 5 - Burra - Rest Day

A bit of a sleep in for us today, before wandering up from our cottage to the oval to grab a bite to eat. Unfortunately they had run out of bacon when we got there, but we certainly didn't go hungry, with a plateful of eggs, sausages, mushrooms and beans on offer. Discussion around the wisdom of eating beans prior to resuming sleeping in a tent is left as an exercise for the reader. 

A few adjustments were made to the bike to hopefully stop the chain dropping off the front chainring, then a quick rest ride around Burra, which also served as a chance to find food places for later in the day.

The bikes were given a quick once over to have the prepared and ready for the day ahead tomorrow.

With the washing done, much of the day was spent just relaxing and doing the odd jobs that needed to be done in preparation for tomorrow. This is how we had planned things in 2019, but they never quite worked out that way!


Nice place to spend a couple of nights


Previous: Outback Odyssey 2021 T - 1 Week

Wednesday 26 May 2021

Outback Odyssey 2021 - T minus 1 week

Welcome back!  Again! :)  

It seems like only 2 years ago that I last updated this blog. 😎  Unsurprisingly, for the same reason... Outback Odyssey!

I was a initially not sure if I wanted to do it again (at least not the full length version), but with it being the 10th edition of Outback Odyssey we thought that it'd be a special edition of the ride and that we shouldn't miss out.  So here we are, planning to another epic adventure in the Flinders Ranges with Bicycle SA.  


Lynskey and Maretta at the start of Outback Odyssey 2019


A slight hiccup

With 2020 being quite a challenging year, with COVID19 and other pressures taking centre stage,  we would constantly tell ourselves "just get to May and Outback Odyssey and we can relax". Until we got one of the regular BikeSA newsletters which said that they had sold out 😢.  Despite months of looking forward to Outback Odyssey, we hadn't actually booked :(   We asked to be put on the waiting list, and like a Christmas miracle, we got an email back in mid-December telling us that two spots had opened up, including the deluxe camping option. No need to ask us twice!  Forms filled out and returned.  We were going!

Bike preparation

On the bike front, a few things have changed.  I eventually got the suspension seat post that I backed on Kickstarter which I had hoped to use in the 2019 Outback Odyssey. However, I have decided not to run with that. Not that it's bad or anything, but rather that I'm preferring to go with what I know works in this case. Whether I will regret this as I'm halfway through Moralana Scenic Drive remains to be seen.

Wheels and tyres

New wheels (Mavic XA Pro) were ordered a few months out which caused quite a bit of concern since I needed to chase down adapters to make them work with my frame. I eventually found the required parts and have them installed.  The wheels are lighter than my old ones, and are tubeless compatible (and in my opinion, look great!). I now don't need to rely on the ghetto-tubeless that I had setup on my older wheels to last for 900km in the middle of nowhere. The potential for failure using ghetto-tubeless was certainly high in my mind. That said, they have been working fine to date and my worries are probably a non-issue.

I've switched to running with Pirelli Scorpion tyres instead of the Michelins from last time. I'm hopeful that the Pirellis will be a little harder wearing than the Michelins, especially as I'm running a rear-specific, hard-pack tyre on the rear which is where much of the wear appears to happen over the course of the Odyssey. In testing, they certainly seem to roll quite nicely.


GPS computer

A new Garmin 830 was purchased to replace my Garmin 820, which, despite being perfectly capable and quite a nice unit, didn't seem to have the battery life that I would like or need for this trip. During the last Outback Odyssey I needed to top up the charge on the Garmin 820 on the longer days. which was fine, but if I could avoid doing so, I figured I should. The Garmin 830 seems to be quite a nice unit, though it has it's own quirks which I am still getting used to. Thus far the battery life appears to be quite impressive. 


Training

Our training has been going well enough. Not super spectacular, but like in 2019 consistent and reasonably methodical. We repeated our ride around Tanunda and Kapunda from 2019 and have done a few longer rides exploring Dry Creek and a few of the connecting trails. 

Online training via Zwift has played a part again in our training. The challenges and series put up on the platform serve to keep us both moving and motivated. That said, I think we both feel that there's simply no substitute for getting outside and riding, hearing and feeling the gravel crunch beneath your tyres. 

Things nearly came to a crashing halt at the beginning of April having been hit by a car driven by an idiot, but the recovery from those injuries appear to be mostly complete at this point and I think I can manage any lingering aches and pains should they arise.



Less stress?

Unlike last time, we both know that we can make the distance, so there's less stress on that front. There's also less concern about whether we take any of the short-cuts due to weather or other factors. We've done all (or almost all? 🤔) of the Mawson Trail at some point, so there's less fear of missing out on anything. We can just go and enjoy the ride, whatever that happens to look like, no matter if it happens to be the 'True Mawson' or not. I think this is pretty important for the overall enjoyment of the experience, so with any luck, that's how things will turn out. Fingers crossed for an amazing experience. 


Next: Outback Odyssey - Adelaide to Burra



Monday 15 July 2019

Outback Odyssey 2019 - Melrose to Blinman

The start of the final leg of the Outback Odyssey and the part that I was most looking forward to. I remember being completely awestruck by the incredible scenery as we travelled into the heart of the Flinders Ranges during our Mini Mawson 3 adventure in 2015 and was keen to relive that experience.  Our 2015 Outback Odyssey held many positive memories and so there was a kind of relief as we headed into this section of the trail, even though I knew full well that it would certainly not be easy going.

Some might even say that from this point, the serious cycling begins.

Day 11 - Melrose to Quorn - 71 km

We awoke to a magnificent sunrise over the plains outside of Melrose! The location of our cabin away from the main street of town was perfectly positioned to take full advantage of the spectacular sight. So while we waited for the luggage truck to arrive to take our stuff back to the main camp, we could admire the show that nature was putting on for us.

Stunning sunrise at Melrose
Riding out of Melrose we stopped at the Goyder monument as a bit of a tip of the hat to our work with the Goyder Institute; naturally we sent photos to our work colleagues who were in the office at the time, which also served to humble-brag that we were having fun while they were busy working.

Lynskey and Maretta check out the
Goyder's line monument
Miss V and myself. No work today.

Fortunately we had a dry night and morning, so there was little to no mud on the back roads outside of Melrose as there was in 2015. In fact, without the mud the roads heading to Wilmington were actually quite enjoyable and we rolled almost effortlessly along them, no doubt assisted by our well rested legs. Also, with at least a week of riding the Mawson under our belt we were quite tuned in to looking for the Mawson markers. It really does seem to make a difference. In 2015 we managed to get ourselves partially lost in this bit!

Having passed the Goyder line outside of Melrose, something that is quite noticeable is the dramatic change in scenery.  Prior to Melrose, there is an abundance of trees and vegetation. Onwards from Melrose the vegetation thins, the number of trees reduces and the landscape changes to that of wide open plains, bound by the magnificent and imposing ranges.

Our morning tea stop was in Wilmington. It was quite the contrast to last time we rode into here. In 2015 with all the muddy roads there was a mad scramble to get to the taps to clean off bikes. None of that today fortunately, in fact the conditions we pretty much perfect.

Our lunch stop was at the road leading to Richmans Gap. In 2015 we were unfortunately directed away from Richmans Gap due to poor trail conditions (which we later found out were nowhere near as bad as reported!). This time however there were no such concerns and so we could ride the Gap. First however, we needed to get there.

Not a problem today.
Choices. The old and the new. 


And what a ride to get there. Smooth rolling dirt roads, cresting hills with breathtaking views at the top; and with the added promise of more fun roads to follow. What's not to like?

This looks fun!
Hurry up!

Before long we'd reached the turn off to Richmans Gap. We weren't really sure what to expect from here, except that there was a climb. It turned out that the climb was quite a challenging rocky climb initially, quite enjoyable as long as you could keep the momentum up and minimise wheelspin on some of the loose sections. The upper section was a bit smoother and a nice way to arrive at the gate at the top. Somewhat disappointing, there wasn't too much in the way of views at the top due to the surprising amount of trees at the top.

Lynskey at the top of Richmans Gap
Chris and Ralphy at the top of Richmans Gap

That disappointment was short lived however as the scenery along the downhill run from the top of the Gap opened up and we had a views across the plains once again. The fast downhill run continued into Quorn, providing us with the perfect end to our day on the bike.


Strava data


Day 12 - Quorn to Hawker - 111 km

A massive day for us, and one that we were probably feeling a bit apprehensive about prior to setting off in the morning. In 2015 we took the short cut into Hawker, cutting out approximately 20 km and still was struggling to get into camp at a reasonable time (admittedly with a stop to check out the awesome Kanyaka ruins). With this trip being all about travelling the bits that we'd missed out on previously we were determined and committed to travel the loop out to Craddock.  Could we make it to Hawker before sunset?  Before we answer that question however, there's a whole heap of really awesome cycling to do!

The roads outside of Quorn were a really easy way to get into the day. Nice and gentle, and reasonably smooth going. Combined with the near ideal weather, it was the perfect way to start the day.  Everyone was rolling along easily, happily chatting away. 

Miss V - On the wide open road outside of Hawker.

First stop was Yarrah Vale Gorge. This is a pretty special bit of trail. The not too difficult climb through the gorge is initially fairly tightly enclosed by the small hills around it, almost claustrophobic in places; then you turn a corner and then instantly the scenery opens up and you're suddenly looking across a wide open expanse from a nicely elevated vantage point. A very nice place to stop and take a few photos.

Yarrah Vale Gorge.

At morning tea we were joined by an American traveller and his companions doing the Mawson Trail unsupported (save for the couple of snacks they grabbed!). It turns out that he had the same bike as Miss V (except the extra cool titanium model). So obviously they're best friends now.

After morning tea, we set off towards Simmonston. I was really looking forward to this part of the day. The scenery is just breathtakingly awesome. Wide open plains with a backdrop of the ranges. It's an environment which make you feel so tiny in comparison to your surrounds. Very hard to beat.  We stopped by Hugh Proby's grave for a few photos but were quickly back on the road to Simmonston. On reaching Simmonston, we stopped for a few more photos, and to take in the views across the valley. I find Simmonston quite a moving place, imagining the early Europeans, full of optimism trying to make a life out here and ultimately failing.

Epic scenery that makes you feel tiny
Miss V and CLP at Simmonston

The run down from Simmonston was relatively smooth and quick, though we knew from experience not to get too comfortable. A 90 degree turning and we were travelling on Gordon Rd, and the start of approximately 10km of corrugated, dead straight road. Just for good measure we had a bit of a head wind to make things extra fun. I put myself on the front for this bit, hoping to give Miss V a bit of a break as her knees had been starting to act up a bit during the last couple of days. I felt pretty strong, so there didn't seem to be any problem with doing so.   Even so, it was damn hard work at times and so when we saw a small cluster of trees by the roadside about half way along, we took the opportunity to take a quick break to recover.

Finally! After what seemed like an eternity, we reached the end of the corrugated road. We turned off  onto the highway briefly and then onto a small section of track that we apparently didn't do last time. Winding our way through some scrub area alongside and through a dry creek landed us at our much needed lunch stop.  Both V and I were pretty exhausted at this point. Even with our determination to get to the Craddock hotel, I'll admit that there was a small voice in my head telling me to take the shorter option up the highway. Shut up small voice!

And with that we crossed the highway and headed into the unknown once again. Unlike on the previous side of the highway, the trails heading towards Craddock had curves and elevation changes! Quite fun, but tough going after the previous section of trails. Eventually we made it to the Craddock hotel and found ourselves a nice place to sit outside.  Have to say, as far as pubs go, this one is a cracker!
Alexa and Lawrie
Checking they are on track for beer
Made it.
Happy days. Beer time!

After an altogether too brief beer stop, we figured that if we wanted to get into camp before sunset we ought to head off. Only 27km to Hawker, and according to the ride briefing the previous night, all downhill. Should be a breeze! Except, our expectation of "downhill" was somewhat different to reality. So it was a bit more of an effort than we'd counted on.   

It was on this short stretch that I had my one and only trouble on the trip. A few kilometres along the road from the Craddock hotel I started feeling quite lightheaded and dizzy. I was finding it difficult to believe that a single beer would have had this much impact on me! I tried to ride through it, but eventually I felt I was risking a crash and was becoming a danger to myself so I pulled off the road.  Rummaging around in my backpack I found a small bag of scroggin which I demolished in short order.  Almost like magic, the dizziness went away. It turns out that I was just hungry! I suspect that the effort along the corrupgated road took a whole lot more out of me than I noticed and only now I was paying the price. Something that I'd need to watch out for on tomorrows ride.

Road to Hawker

With my head back in gear, we rolled away, maybe a little bit cautiously at first, but we soon got back up to speed. The final little section into Hawker was a nice downhill to enter the town just as the sun was starting to go down. We made it, with not much time to spare!

I think this is where our decision to go with the deluxe camping option came into it's own. I don't think there's any possible way that we could have done this day, at the relaxed pace that we generally travel, as well as pack up and put up our tent at either end of the day. Deluxe camping...worth every cent!

Strava data

Day 13 - Hawker to Rawnsley Park Station - 94 km

Our second big day in a row. While the total kilometres were marginally less than yesterday, we knew from experience that this day had a very nasty sting in the tail in the form of a stretch of about 25km of corrugated roads.

The trails in the morning have a significantly different feel to previous days, tending to wind their way around bush tracks though sheep stations, rather than staying on unsealed roads. Not a bad thing, but it certainly adds to the feeling of isolation.

Recalling our Mini Mawson adventure in 2015, we were keen to revisit the somewhat mysterious tomb of Douglas Bruce. During dinner the previous night Miss V borrowed Ray's book about the Flinders Ranges. It turns out that while Douglas Bruce wasn't famous in his own right, his brother Robert was a noted poet and writer of the time.  Perhaps this goes some way to explaining the massive monument in the middle of nowhere!

The mysterious tomb of Douglas Bruce.

Equally mysterious -
Grave site of E & M Bone
A few more twists and turns through the scenery and we were set to head upwards Wonoka Climb. This is a fun (read: steep, and a loose) little climb which puts us on top of a plateau. The way down however is even more fun.  There were warnings about this part (and recommendations to walk the descent) in the ride briefing the night before. However, casting my mind back to 2015 I found that I was more than half way down the climb before I realised I should have been walking. So knowing what to expect, I decided to ride it. I'm glad I did. While it needed full attention, it was a bit of fun. That said, we did have one lady who crashed pretty hard and had to substitute riding the rest of the day for a trip to Hawker hospital. Doesn't seem like a good trade.

CLP - Attack position!
Photo c/ B. Sayer 
CLP descending.
Photo c/ B. Sayer 
Even after this descent, the fun didn't stop with even more descending to follow as we headed towards morning tea. We could get used to this!



After morning tea we were treated to yet more trails winding through the bush land.  There's the occasional ruin that reminds you that you're travelling through a station, but for the most part there's the feeling of unlimited open space.  Eventually the fun has to stop, and we're spit back out onto the highway. No problem, 10 or so kilometres of cruisy riding until lunch, right?  Nope.  Apparently Miss V wants to do a team time trial. I'll leave the reasons for this as an exercise for the reader.

Once there was a house, now there isn't

We arrived at lunch in a pretty little spot in a shaded dry creek bed. The ride had been so nice up until now, but we knew what was to come.  Morilana Scenic Drive with its 25 kilometers of corrugations. Sadly, this isn't up there on my top 10 places I want to cycle.  Which is a pity, because the scenery, like much of this region, is spectacular. The road surface is less than spectacular on a bike however.

The body language of someone who is preparing themselves to ride Morilana Scenic Drive.
I think knowing what to expect on Morilana Scenic Drive helped us a fair bit. It didn't make things any easier on the body, but I think it let us prepare mentally for the battering we were about to receive. On the plus side, this time around the wind was far less of a problem so we could just concentrate on dealing with the 25 kilometres of corrugated roads. This gave us a bit more opportunity to appreciate the scenery through this valley, which is pretty spectacular.  I think we coped a little bit better this time, and found the time to stop and take a few photos along the way.

Morilana Scenic Drive delivers - Scenery!
Nigel's car was a very welcome sight, indicating that we had reached afternoon tea, and perhaps more critically, the end of Morilana Scenic Drive. The run from this point is on the highway. While  stretches along the roads are generally not favoured, in this case the smooth surface was most certainly welcome. Our home for the night was Rawnsley Park Station, which to be honest, we weren't really looking forward to. Mainly because the food has historically been fairly average on previous Outback Odysseys. This time they did okay, so credit where it's due, I think they have redeemed themselves.

Home for the night - Rawnsley Park Station.

Strava data

Day 14  - Rawnsley Park Station to Wilpena Pound - 30 km

More of a transition day for us with a relatively easy and relaxed 25 km to get from Rawnsley Park to Wilpena Pound. This was quite welcome after two big days in succession. With such a short day the morning routine was a little more relaxed than usual, especially compared to the previous two days.

The trails leaving Rawnsley are an interesting way to start the day. A bit rocky in places, so it's possible to get yourself into trouble, but they generally have a nice flow to them, and they feel a bit special being under the watchful eye of Ranges, and in particular Rawnsley Bluff.

Miss V on the trails. No rush today.
Mostly easy going today.

While my general rule for the Outback Odyssey is not to try untested equipment, with the day being so short I couldn't help but want to try out my new Over the Edge cycling kit that I had picked up in Melrose. So it was new kit day for me! Though I did feel a bit conspicuous in my bright orange jersey and knicks!

Miss V - trying to convince us
she's having fun 
New kit day for me!
  
The day for us was fairly uneventful, though certainly enjoyable. After the Rawnsley trails we jumped onto the highway for a bit and then, via a hidden little turn off onto the telegraph track. The telegraph track lead us onto some nice wide tracks which mirrored the route of the highway all the way up to the turn off into Wilpena Pound. Too easy.

Of course, that's only part of the story really. Throughout our day we were riding alongside the outer faces of Wilpena Pound. Such an imposing natural monument and a good reminder of the epicness of our journey to get to this point. 

Home for the night - Wilpena Pound. 

Arriving at camp, we had quite a bit of time to spare, so we spend a bit of time just relaxing, and then a short walk on one of the trails within Wilpena Pound. Very nice way to spend the afternoon and reinforced our resolve to get back here at some point in the future.

The day ended on a slightly sad note, with us finding out that our ride buddy Allison had fallen on some of the early trails and had broken her wrist, leaving her unable to ride the final day into Blinman. She will clearly have to make amends and ride the next Outback Odyssey.

Strava data

Day 15 - Wilpena Pound to Blinman - 70 km

Our last day on the trail! I remembered this one fairly well from 2015 as being much harder than it appears on paper. Lots of creek bed crossings and short, sharp punchy climbs is a sure way to smashing the legs! There were also memories of washed out sections that were tempting the unwary to crash in a screaming heap. Hopefully we'd get through this okay and stay out of trouble.

The day started poorly though. As we were leaving, Chris was frantically searching for Ralphy as he'd gone missing around breakfast time. So as we rolled out of camp, feeling a bit helpless,  we were concerned that we might not see that happy little face again. Not really the way we want to finish things off.

The trails exiting Wilpena Pound are quite pretty, threading its way through a wooded area with a bunch of creek crossings. Fortunately there were very few washed out sections, so the trail was in pretty good condition for us and we could enjoy the scenery just that little bit more.

Fun ride through the trees.
Miss V looks like she's enjoying things.

We detoured off the trail briefly to look for some interesting geology that we were told about last night. We were about to give up when someone else yelled out from a nearby creek bed that they had located it. Talk about frustrating! Ultimately though, it was really good so see this. What we were standing in front of was the debris of a meteor strike that occurred ~300 kilometres to the west on the Eyre Peninsula approximately 580 million years ago. Pretty damn amazing.



The next part of the day is one that I'd been really looking forward to.  Riding along Bunyeroo Gorge road and up the the iconic climb to the Razorback Lookout. There's a good reason that the views from this lookout appear so often in advertising material for the Flinders Ranges. It's simply stunning.  I managed to get up the climb quicker than last time as well, which I was well happy with given the number of kilometres in my legs by this stage. Photos were taken. Lots of photos!

Spectacular view from Razorback Lookout.

Massive effort from Miss V
Smudge Monkees at Razorback Lookout! :) 

It was only a short cruise to morning tea which had an awesome surprise for us...  Ralphy! So much relief! He was okay. I reckon Ralphy received more attention at morning tea from everyone than he did during the rest of the tour!

From this point onwards it became a bit more difficult. Maybe not from a technical perspective, but from a strength and fitness perspective.  A constant barrage of punchy up and downhills served to really test the legs leading into lunch. There were certainly a few people that looked worse for wear, but despite it all everyone was still relatively cheery and looking forward to a well earned refreshment at the end.

Ride buddy Kathy
Ride buddy Judith
Ride buddy Patty
Ride buddy Ralphy & Ride Marshal/buddy Chris

The run into Blinman from lunch is, to be honest, a bit of a drag. About 15 kilometres on the bitumen, and most of it uphill.  Not actually that much fun and a bit of a hard slog at times.  The mood does lift a little when you pass the turn off to Alpana Station and you see people returning from the Blinman Hotel, yelling out encouragement. Then the mood lifts a little more as you pass the road sign signalling that you're entering Blinman and you can see a few buildings clustered ahead. Then finally you crest the hill and you can see the North Blinman Hotel, with all your ride buddies there celebrating. Magic!

We made it!

Success!